I had been toying with the idea of going over how I set up my new bows for tournament shooting already, and then I had a request for this topic so I decided now is a good time to start putting the information out. I’m going to make this as detailed as possible and add back in some videos or pictures later on as I am getting them done, so this will be several parts long and I will try to break them down in segments of related steps. Starting with what I look for in choosing equipment for my bows, unboxing and initial tuning, more in depth tuning, and ongoing adaptions. As always, thanks for reading these and I hope this information is helpful for you.
It doesn’t matter how much money you spend on a bow, or how well you tune it, or attempt to tune it, or what amount of effort you put into shooting if the equipment you put on the bow isn’t adequate. This doesn’t mean you have to buy the most expensive items out there though, just quality items. When I pick any accessory, I look at the company I am purchasing from. I’ll read reviews on the product and take into account all the good, bad, and sponsored pushing information I can get. I’ll also try to decide if I believe in the product, how it’s made, and what it’s designed to do. Everyone will have their personal preferences, and there are enough good companies and products out there that you can afford to do that. Many times there’s not a wrong answer, just your answer. With that being said I’ll go over what I put on my bow and why, starting with my strings.
The strings I am currently using are America’s Best Bowstrings, Platinum Strings. Yes, they are expensive. And yes, you may be able to find the quality in these strings in other places from other makers. Personally, I have tried strings made from three different companies now, and these have been the best I have used at this point. I have gotten these strings out of the packaging on two different occasions now, put them onto my bow, roughly set cam timing and draw length, and put three shots in them to see rotation and settling. After the second shot, I haven’t seen anymore movement. That’s including after all of my tuning was completed when temperatures were at 40 Degrees Fahrenheit and now they are a Texas typical, 100 or more. The servings are holding up very well too. I have seen much less wear on them in the same amount of shots as previous strings have shown from different companies.
From here I’ll start at the top of my bow and work my way down on what is on it. For a peep sight I use Specialty Archery’s peep with interchangeable aperatures. I like this option for ease of adjusting sight picture for the size scope I am using. I have also exchanged sizes on them while testing and seen my left and rights clear up, even when feeling visually comfortable with both sizes I was testing. Because of this happening, I feel having the ease of adjustability is very key for lessening the distances I miss by on my bad shots.
For my target sight and scope I use the Axcel Achieve CX with 6 inch extension and Sure-Loc 35mm scope. The quality on the Axcel products are amazing. They are sturdy and can take some abuse. The tolerances they are made to are also very impressive. For me they are well worth the money because of the micro adjustments on windage and elevation. I can use one click to move small amounts even at longer distances and really dial a sight in. For my scope I use a .010 green fiber up pin. I have tried working with magnification before, but for myself personally didn’t see much of an advantage for target shooting. I am lucky enough to have very good eye sight and can see the targets at any distance needed. When I am aiming I will cover the spot with the pin and just let it float at that point for my shot to go off.
Moving down to my arrow rest, I use the Spot Hogg Edge Rest with a .008 narrow blade for my outdoor arrows and either a .010 or .012 wide blade that I will modify for my indoor arrows. I like the ease of adjustment on the Spot Hogg rest. There is no lock down screw for the windage and elevation changes which I prefer so that it is easier for me to make changes during tuning. Also, the adjustment screw has a very smooth and positive feeling to it. The rest does not wobble and move around as I am moving the adjustment screw. It will track straight and it feels very put together.
And lastly, I use Doinker Platinum Stabilizers with their 4-2-1 weights and brackets/quick disconnect. I chose Doinker because of the good reviews I had read initially and also after talking to a couple of people that work for the company, I was impressed with how they handled themselves. The platinum stabilizers are plenty stiff and help me settle down very quickly when I reach full draw. This allows me to get on target quicker and keep a fluid shot routine. Another reason I picked the Doinker products is that they came with weights from the get go. I like how their weight systems work with all of the threaded shafts coming in a package with the weights, making it easy to adjust for personal preference. I also use the platinum quick disconnects for the front rod and the rear rod, with the rear rod using their bracket to locate the stabilizer on the lower mounting hole on my Hoyt Pro Comp Elite.
So this is the equipment I am using currently and trust with my shooting and scores. If I ever change anything on this list, I’ll go through and put an edit note next to it and why I chose to change to keep up with everything. I’ll have Part 2 out soon. It’ll be over what I do from unboxing a new bow.