Bow Build Up Part 4 Partial Stabilizer Set-Up, String Angle, Hold Tuning

Keeping with the trend of moving down the bow and installing accessories, the next step I take is going through the first part of my Stabilizer Set-Up. Here is a link for you to follow that will explain this. (https://rcrchery.wordpress.com/2014/07/06/balancing-act/) What I will do is work through all of this process, except the fine tuning part of shooting and following my groups to determine the final adjustments.

Once I have my stabilizers roughly set for the moment I will start on a part of my set up that has a step in it hardly anyone thinks about, and in my opinion is very critical to comfort and repeatability from shot to shot, string angle.

The angle the string comes across your nose, face, mouth, and where your loop pulls from will have a very noticeable affect on how your hold and float will feel and look throughout your shot. It also can affect how comfortable your anchor position is and how you see through the peep sight. You’ll have to play around with this a little bit and experiment.

As I wrote in Part 3, I will start out with the arrow running through the center of the berger button hole with the nocking point at a 90 degree angle to the string. I will make a few shots up close to see how things feel coming to anchor and throughout my execution. Sometimes I will notice that my anchor doesn’t seem to feel quite right. Maybe it’s trying to settle in higher than I prefer, or lower, because of how the string is contacting my face. Also, I may notice that my hand is wanting to pull in an upward or downward direction while I pull through the shot because of the amount of string being above or below my nocking point and D-Loop.

So let’s say for example I am finding that during my execution I am wanting to pull upwards with my hand and cause low misses at times. What I will do next is change the way my arrow runs through the berger button hole. Instead of it staying in the center, I will now move it to where the bottom of the arrow rides along the top of the berger button hole. Then I will raise my D-Loop up to get to the same 90 degree angle to my string again. Now I will shoot several shots again and try to see any patterns and how it is feeling after the change. I will keep moving little by little as I need to, until it becomes comfortable to me. If I initially have moved the arrow too high, I will lower it back down to where half of the arrow is going through the top of the berger button hole. I try not to get too far one way or the other though. If I have to get completely above or below the berger button hole, I will settle with the setting that feels the best, then adjust the rest of my hold and float later on with stabilizers. Usually though, I am inside the berger button hole dead center, or close to it.

Once I have found the position that I am shooting and holding that is the most comfortable and consistent, I will remove the D-Loop I tied on before and then tie in my nocking points above and below the string. I use tied in nocking points because later on, if I need to replace a D-Loop, I will not have to worry about the height of my arrow changing or any of the feel from the string angle tuning I just worked on going away. After my nocking points are tied in, I will then tie another D-Loop onto my string and move onto the next part of my tuning.

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