How I Fixed My Hoyt Pro Comp Elite’s Right Tear

After having the Hoyt Pro Comp Elite standard and XL versions out for a couple of years now, many people have come accustomed to having to work through issues of right or left tears and fighting the bow to achieve good tuning results. I’m one of those people as well. I have had two Pro Comp Elites now, and also two sets of Spiral cams on my newest one for an added issue I have found, and have had the dreaded right tear with both. Yes, I have been able to tune my set up to compensate and still get good arrow flight, but I wanted more. I wanted a more efficient way of setting up my bow. With less side to side movement, less torquing effect throughout draw cycle and release, and more consistency down range on target.

All of my wants led me to try an Arc-Tec Adjustable Cable Rod. I understood the concept and mechanically could see where it helped, so with just another gimmicky accessory in the back of my mind, I purchased one. This purchase then led to a three month waiting period to receive it. Coming from out of the country it was back ordered, and by the time I received it, I had a tuned bow and did not want to change anything in the middle of the year. That was until I wore out my first set of cables, and was starting to wear out the second set after only 100-200 shots.

The excessive wear caught my attention and I wanted to see what was causing it and what needed to be done. So in my draw board my bow went. I cranked down the bow a little bit at a time when the areas of the cables that were wearing reached the cams, to try to decipher what was causing all of this wear. What I found was two separate problems. The first being the lean induced into the bottom cam throughout the draw cycle from the original straight cable rod pulling the cables off center, and the second problem was what I have found to be a potential problem with Hoyt’s SpiralX Cam’s design.

To fix the first problem, I installed my Arc-Tec Adjustable Cable Rod, following the instructions that came with it. This process was not hard at all. Just backing off the two set screws holding the original straight cable rod in place, sliding that rod out, replacing with my adjustable cable rod, and setting the depth it needed to be at was all that was needed initially. The next part was the experimental part on how much angle to put into the adjustable rod. For this adjustment, what I was looking for was to keep the bottom cam as straight as possible throughout the draw cycle. I determined this by using my draw board once again and drawing the bow to full draw and noting where my bottom cam’s draw stop hit the cable at. Originally the cable was only contacting the far outside, right edge of the draw stop. After adjusting the Arc-Tec’s angle, I was able to get the cable contacting the center of the draw stop, and then just to the left of center to finish my adjustments. This was still giving me enough clearance with my vanes as well, so I left it at this and started the rest of my tuning procedures. At the end of my tuning, I ended with the center of my arrow rest right on 7/8 of an inch, measured from the inside of my riser, and my top cam with just a slight lean to the left. (\) This has given me a noticeable difference in horizontal spread on my groupings. Any ill inputs I make with my bow hand have been lessened much more now down range, and my draw cycle is much improved as well. The Arc-Tec rod has a rubber dampener on it where the cable slide hits after the shot and this has also taken some of the vibration out of the bow as well.

For my second problem, this will be why I have two sets of cams now. I noticed on my bottom cam, the track where the buss cable would wrap around the cam wasn’t extended far enough and came to a “v”. This “v” shape is slicing into the cable as it is nearing full draw, and with the lean the cam had beforehand making the side of the “v” contact the cable as well. From what I can see using my draw board, if the track for the buss cable was made longer by just a fraction of an inch, this “v” would not come into contact with the cable causing the wear. This design has been the same on both sets of cams I have used, as well as one other PCE I have seen as well. I contacted Hoyt about this, but have not heard a reply yet. I’m not entirely sure this is an issue on all Sprial Cams yet, but on the three sets I have viewed, it has been. The damage has been less now that the lean isn’t so severe, but I will still have to keep an eye on the cable for wear and see how things progress.

Given the cost of the Arc-Tec, it won’t be for everyone I admit. But for myself, being someone who likes to tinker, I could see a design advantage to it and that alone was enough for me to try it out. I’m very happy with it so far and look forward to seeing how much it will change my averages by adding the little bit of consistency I was looking to get out of it.

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2 thoughts on “How I Fixed My Hoyt Pro Comp Elite’s Right Tear

  1. Ron

    Great article!
    I also purchased an ArcTec but now my lower draw stop is catching the control cable before it hits stop cable on the bus cable.

    1. rcrchery Inc. Post author

      Thank you! You may have to take some of the angle off the adjustment to keep the cables from coming over too far, or you might could change the orientation of the shims on the lower cam to help clearance as well.


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