Hoyt Podium X Elite 37 Part One

This will be part one of my Hoyt PXE 37 review and findings. I’m going to cover my initial impressions of the bow, what it came with out of the box, my thoughts and findings so far, and also the right tear issue that some have reported and what I have done to correct the issue and get full functionality of the bow back. 

Starting with what came in the box, you get a Hoyt hat, sticker, coupon/ad, manual, lanyard, and finally the three offset grips.

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My initial impressions of the bow were great. I was very happy with the finish on the bow. I ordered the Cobalt Blue color to set up as a tribute to a part of my past and family, and I have to say the new finish for the Cobalt is much nicer than the previous Cobalt. It’s a brighter finish that really pops. The only gripe I had was actually the same gripe I had with my Pro Comp Elite, the Airshox alignment. The Airshox rubs against the inside of the limbs on one side. This bow seems to have a pretty severe angle to it as well. I shimmed my PCE and I have shimmed the PXE as well though to get a better fitment. It’s a minor grievance, but one I feel could have been fixed from the factory.

The next thing I did was set my PCE and PXE side by side to see a comparison of the grip heights. You can see a good bit of difference between the two, and I am much happier with the grip being raised back up for the PXE.

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Okay, so the elephant in the room, the right tear. It seems to be a hit or miss issue with the 37’s, but the 40’s seem more common to have this issue. For now, I can only comment on the 37 model and what I found and did to correct, but if I find out more for the 40 model I’ll edit and add to this posting. When I first got my new bow and started looking it over I noticed the bow string being shifted much to the left of center. It looked enough to be out of place and catch my attention, so I started looking at the spacers on the cams to see how they were oriented. From the factory, my bow had the thick spacers on the cable guard side of the bow for both the top and bottom limbs. This was shifting the cams over to the left (right handed bow) causing the bow string to be shifted to the far left of center for the riser. This shifting of the cams also caused alignment issues, rubbing issues, and made my adjustable cable guard unusable. As I pulled the bow to full draw in my draw board I could see where the bottom cam’s draw stop peg was hitting the cables as it rotated, and at full draw instead of the draw stop peg hitting the cable close to center, the cable was actually rubbing against the cam and touching the draw stop peg at the base where it meets the cam. This also made the adjustable cable guard unusable because I could not bring the cables in anymore because they were already hitting the bottom cam at the 0 degree angle.

My fix for this issue was to flip the spacers. I exchanged the bottom spacers first and checked for clearance in my draw board and found that the issues did get better. Next, I exchanged the top spacers and checked again using my draw board. Now, the issue was much better. I was getting no clearance issues with my draw stop peg, and the cable was contacting the peg just to right of center at full draw. Here is a picture of how I ended up with my spacers on the top and bottom cams.

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This has also allowed me to have full use of my adjustable cable guard, and since I am setting this bow up for skinny outdoor arrows, I set the cable guard at the 6 degree angle. This has allowed me plenty of clearance, a much smoother draw, and straighter set up for my cams.

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At this point I have only done an initial set up for the bow and paper tuned the bow with a bare shaft arrow. I set the centershot of the bow with the arrow inline with the stabilizer/center of the limb pockets. After shooting through paper, I have ended with the top cam being slightly left “\” of straight at brace and have a perfect bullet hole through paper.

Having only shot this bow through paper up close I can’t give a full review on forgiveness, but coming from my PCE I was surprised at how I could be very lazy and not paying attention to grip placement and still get perfect bullet holes. I was never able to get away with this on my PCE. In fact, I had to focus hard on grip placement on each shot to get the same results. So for the PXE, I’d say this is a good indication of forgiveness at this point and I look forward to getting some more time behind the string along the way.

I’ll have part two written and added on here as I continue my tuning process. Hopefully all my findings and settings will net good results downrange as I continue working with the bow.

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8 thoughts on “Hoyt Podium X Elite 37 Part One

  1. Rick!

    Have you written Part 2 yet? I have a ’13 PCE XL and am very interested in how they compare as I’m finding the PCE is very finicky to shoot well. What I’d really like to understand is how the ’13/’14 PCE even made it to production? Alpha’s had a higher grip and the Podium has come back to a higher grip.

    Reply
    1. rchery18 Post author

      I have not written the second article yet, but it should be up by mid/end of this month. From my understandings, Dan McCarthy and a few other Hoyt shooters lobbied and help design the PCE’s with the lower grip positioning. They wanted to bring the balance closer to overall center. I think it would have worked alright, but when the widened limbs came out, it put a lot of stress on the lower cam and caused some lean issues and balance issues. I found my PCE to be very finicky as well and just had to work very hard to make good repeatable shots. I haven’t had that issue with the PXE.

      Reply
  2. Ricardo Velarde

    hey Rick great post, I had the exact same problems with my PXE and they where driving me crazy. Im gonna try solving those problems the way you did. Could you talk a bit about the nocking point location on the PXE. I started off with a perfectly level Nocking point to the burger button hole. It seems to be working fine, but Im not 100% convinced its the optimal setup. When I paper tune the bow I get a consistent nock high tear. I Initially thought the problem was on the cam timing (another topic I havent found much info on) but The draw stops where actually hitting at the exact same time. So what do you think? what is the best nocking point on the bow and cam timing combination?

    Reply
    1. rchery18 Post author

      I have my nock point set up just above level with the arrow running through the Berger button hole.

      Search creep tuning. That’ll give you the information on can timing. I have an article written on it.

      Start with your top can hitting about 1/8 of an inch ahead of the bottom cam.

      Reply
      1. Ricardo Velarde

        WOW what a difference! I changed my cam spacers and got an almost perfect bullet hole on paper on the first shot! Could you please explain in detail how you shimmed your PXE to stop your Air shox rubbing against one of the limbs? I have heard a lot of people talking about shimming limbs but dont understand how exactly the shimming is done.

      2. rchery18 Post author

        I used washers of different thicknesses until I got the right offset. You take the airshox arm off and on limb pocket portion you set the washers in there and then put the airshox arm back on to see fitment.

        I’m glad you had good results flipping the spacers!!

  3. Hieu

    Hi, you did a great review for this bow. I intend to flipping the spacers for my bow. From the photo above (bottom cam) I found that the spacers seems like original setting, white spacer on the left and black spacer (thinner) on the right. It is exactly like my original bow setup.
    Could you help to advise pls. Thank you

    Reply
    1. rchery18 Post author

      Hello, send me an email at rcrchery@gmail.com and we can go through different areas to try. Do you have the 37 inch axle to axle model? What tear/bare shaft impact are you getting? Also, what portion does the cable touch on the draw stop peg on your bottom cam at full draw?

      Reply

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