This will be part one of my Hoyt PXE 37 review and findings. I’m going to cover my initial impressions of the bow, what it came with out of the box, my thoughts and findings so far, and also the right tear issue that some have reported and what I have done to correct the issue and get full functionality of the bow back.
Starting with what came in the box, you get a Hoyt hat, sticker, coupon/ad, manual, lanyard, and finally the three offset grips.
My initial impressions of the bow were great. I was very happy with the finish on the bow. I ordered the Cobalt Blue color to set up as a tribute to a part of my past and family, and I have to say the new finish for the Cobalt is much nicer than the previous Cobalt. It’s a brighter finish that really pops. The only gripe I had was actually the same gripe I had with my Pro Comp Elite, the Airshox alignment. The Airshox rubs against the inside of the limbs on one side. This bow seems to have a pretty severe angle to it as well. I shimmed my PCE and I have shimmed the PXE as well though to get a better fitment. It’s a minor grievance, but one I feel could have been fixed from the factory.
The next thing I did was set my PCE and PXE side by side to see a comparison of the grip heights. You can see a good bit of difference between the two, and I am much happier with the grip being raised back up for the PXE.
Okay, so the elephant in the room, the right tear. It seems to be a hit or miss issue with the 37’s, but the 40’s seem more common to have this issue. For now, I can only comment on the 37 model and what I found and did to correct, but if I find out more for the 40 model I’ll edit and add to this posting. When I first got my new bow and started looking it over I noticed the bow string being shifted much to the left of center. It looked enough to be out of place and catch my attention, so I started looking at the spacers on the cams to see how they were oriented. From the factory, my bow had the thick spacers on the cable guard side of the bow for both the top and bottom limbs. This was shifting the cams over to the left (right handed bow) causing the bow string to be shifted to the far left of center for the riser. This shifting of the cams also caused alignment issues, rubbing issues, and made my adjustable cable guard unusable. As I pulled the bow to full draw in my draw board I could see where the bottom cam’s draw stop peg was hitting the cables as it rotated, and at full draw instead of the draw stop peg hitting the cable close to center, the cable was actually rubbing against the cam and touching the draw stop peg at the base where it meets the cam. This also made the adjustable cable guard unusable because I could not bring the cables in anymore because they were already hitting the bottom cam at the 0 degree angle.
My fix for this issue was to flip the spacers. I exchanged the bottom spacers first and checked for clearance in my draw board and found that the issues did get better. Next, I exchanged the top spacers and checked again using my draw board. Now, the issue was much better. I was getting no clearance issues with my draw stop peg, and the cable was contacting the peg just to right of center at full draw. Here is a picture of how I ended up with my spacers on the top and bottom cams.
This has also allowed me to have full use of my adjustable cable guard, and since I am setting this bow up for skinny outdoor arrows, I set the cable guard at the 6 degree angle. This has allowed me plenty of clearance, a much smoother draw, and straighter set up for my cams.
At this point I have only done an initial set up for the bow and paper tuned the bow with a bare shaft arrow. I set the centershot of the bow with the arrow inline with the stabilizer/center of the limb pockets. After shooting through paper, I have ended with the top cam being slightly left “\” of straight at brace and have a perfect bullet hole through paper.
Having only shot this bow through paper up close I can’t give a full review on forgiveness, but coming from my PCE I was surprised at how I could be very lazy and not paying attention to grip placement and still get perfect bullet holes. I was never able to get away with this on my PCE. In fact, I had to focus hard on grip placement on each shot to get the same results. So for the PXE, I’d say this is a good indication of forgiveness at this point and I look forward to getting some more time behind the string along the way.
I’ll have part two written and added on here as I continue my tuning process. Hopefully all my findings and settings will net good results downrange as I continue working with the bow.